So I've just reinstalled my own Lewmar Old Standard ports on Liberte Boo (Halmatic 30) and have some thoughts to share....
I'm posting this now but will edit again to add photos!
1) Dry fit first and mark before final placement
The tape is surprisingly sticky (assuming you have wiped the surfaces with Acetone beforehand), so once in place the options to adjust the position are non-existent (other than to completely remove and start again).
Given you will be fitting from the outside you won't be able to easily see how the frame is positioned within the cutout, unless you have someone inside to tell you. So here's what I suggest.
Openers technique
Before adding the GZ tape, place the outer frame in the cutout and use something like a clamp (or a friend) to stop it falling out while you move inside. When inside loosen the clamp and reposition the frame so the gap between cutout and frame is even all the way round. Now re-clamp (two is best) to hold the frame in this position. Then return to the outside and place some masking tape at on e end and on the top surface at several points. Then release the clamps and having re-wiped the flange/GRP with Acetone fit the GZ tape and return to the outside. Now you can position the unit accurately using the masking tape guides and push to secure. Once in place you can return to the inside to fit the inner ring and fasteners.
Fixed technique
Have a friend as clamping as above is not an option. If necessary use the inner ring and fasteners to clamp in position before applying the masking tape. Then it's similar to the guidance above.
2) Have a range of M5 fasteners
The tape is 3mm thick so if your 'final' fasteners are sized to hold the frame closer to the GRP they may not be long enough to accommodate this 3mm initially. So I'd suggest having say 6 fasteners that are 5mm longer than those you will use as 'final'. Use the longer fasteners to pull the frame in to squeeze the GZ from 3mm to ~1mm and then replace having already added the original fasteners in the other positions.
3) Don't 'pull' the GZ tape when fitting
Particularly in the (radius) corners you'll probably have to peel back the tape backing to see how to position it. If so it's easy to pull the tape round the corners which narrows it. Resist and just 'tack' it in position as you go with your finger nail of a suitable tool.
4) Avoid too much excess when butting the tape ends
When you get to the join cut with a blade or scissors so that it butts up. You don't need any overlap as when the tape is squeezed from 3mm to ~1mm it will spread.
5) Position the tape join on the bottom of the window
I normally put the join on the bottom of the window.
6) Gear up for removing the excess tape
It's likely that the tape will squeeze out beyond the edge of the frame. To clean this up first wipe/spray with a solution of fairy liquid (say 10%). This will help reduce the 'drag' of the blade.
Now get a knife with a new thin blade, such as a scalpel. A fine blade will also reduce the risk of dragging.
Then scribe around the edge of the frame with the knife. You can use a plastic or acrylic (ask me for one) scraper to tease away the excess.
With the excess removed, use some white spirit on a cloth to smooth over.
Admire your work....
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