I appreciate such vulgarity is not a good start, but I want to be honest about this style of window and how we feel about them. Sliders feature twin channel frames with one or more (typically glass) panes sealed (as in fixed) within the inner channel and another loose (typically glass) pane which moved either horizontally or vertically along the outer channel within a (often felt) lined rubber guide known as 'flock'. Some units may have a slider element (vertical?) within a larger window of several elements.
Typically, as deposits of airborne debris, plus mould/moss and a lax cleaning regime takes hold these sliders become increasingly difficult to move and with drains blocked lead to leaking.
Sliders will always leak. They are a bad design. You can reduce the issues (above) through regular maintenance, wiping with a detergent solution and clearing the drains etc but eventually the 'flock' will crumble and the fixed seal (probably marine seal = two part butyl putty of old) will let go. So what are the options?
1) Full refurb
This will be expensive and if your craft is a 1970's motor boat with loads of glass, probably not cost effective (so look below).
Spoiler alert - Sliders are a pain to refurb. Our quote may appear expensive but trust me they always take longer, much longer to do...
So, the basic process, once we have the outer frames (we don't need any inner rings so keep them safe) is to completely disassemble the frames and release both the fixed and sliding panes. We then remove any sealant/flock back to bare metal (as for any fixed window). We remove all traces of previous sealant (standard practice) as new sealant will NOT adhere to old!
Next we scratch our heads over both the 'flock' and the weatherstrip (the vertical rubber strip which seals the sliding pane to the fixed pane), hoping that we can find something that matches the previous which was probably made by a company long bust.
Assuming this is possible (sometimes we have to refresh/reuse the old weatherstrip), we set about reconstruction and resealing. Sealing is done with silicone.
2) Quick and dirty DIY...
I'm loath to support DIY for this, but understand that the price of the above may easily exceed the value of the boat especially for for glass laden inland cruisers.
Assuming the fixed pane is not leaking (if not the case revert to the above) one option is just to replace the 'flock' elements you can access when the sliding part is fully open. You clearly won't be able to access all of the flock as some will remain under the pane, but something is better than nothing. You also won't be able to change the vertical weatherstrip. With the window fully open, cut and remove a small section of flock so you can check its dimensions. Then go on the C O H Baines website and try and find something similar.
If so, order some and temporarily replace the sample so that you can use the window until the new flock is received.
With the new flock to hand, return to the window(s) and with the window open, cut and remove all the accessible flock. Clean all debris/glue/sealant from the outer channel and clean the drain holes at the same time. White spirit and scotchbrite are good for cleaning.
Dry fit the new flock and cut to size. Slightly too long is probably better.
Before gluing, wipe the frame channel with Acetone to remove any oily residue. Glue the lower butt joint using superglue and then use either contact adhesive or superglue on the bottom of the flock and fit. Superglue the upper butt joint (check beforehand whether any excess length need to be trimmed). Close the slider to hold the flock in position while setting.
Some time later..... With the window closed, with a scalpel (new blade please) carefully cut the flock away around the drain opening. If helpful then open the window and finish off. The idea is that water will drain from the flock channel so have this in mind.
You're done. Not perfect, but a lot quicker, cheaper and you didn't have to remove the window(s)....
3) Fixed pane option - for the sensible owner
We replace the existing fixed/sliding panes with one new glass pane sealed in the outer channel. This will not leak (subject to normal warranties) and will cost less than a slider refurb (1) above), even including the cost of the new glass pane.
Using the existing panes (ie converting the sliding pane to fixed) is not a good option and will not be materially cheaper than the full slider refurb, just in case you are wondering...
Clearly if the window was say a 3 element unit with the vertical slider in just the central element then the above focuses on the central element only.
I write this full of chest infection after 6 days in bed so forgive me if I'm tailing off slightly....
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